I am currently aboard a cruise ship heading west along the southern coast of Australia, almost halfway between Melbourne and Perth. This region has few cities and is mainly composed of semi-arid farmlands inhabited more by kangaroos than people. We first flew to Sydney, Australia’s most populated city, then spent three days exploring the city. Our hotel was located near the iconic Sydney Opera House where we saw Turandot, Puccini’s last opera. He died from cancer prior to completing the third act. His opera was posthumously completed by another composer. Just sitting inside this architectural gem was like visiting a Gothic cathedral; attending a Puccini grand opera staged within it magnified all my senses.
During our last evening in Sydney, we sat across the harbor from the opera house and joined the Australia Day festivities of music, fireworks, lights, drones, and parading ships. This celebration is the Australian version of the Fourth of July. Settlers first came to Australia in 1788 with the landing of the British First Fleet and raised the Union flag near Sydney Harbor. This historical event is insulting to the indigenous people who inhabited Australia for 60,000 years prior to the first Europeans. Putting aside this dark history, it was a joy to see the Australians celebrating their country with pride.
Our next stop was Melbourne, Australia’s second largest city. While central Sydney simmered in modern glass and steel, Melbourne had a distinct Victorian feel. We toured Fitzroy Gardens, a small rectangular green space planted in a distinctively English style with Captain Cook’s cottage occupying the center. We walked to the nearby St. Patrick’s Cathedral, a dark brown Irish structure that was more European than New World. Afterwards, we entered The Shrine of Remembrance dedicated to the Australian soldiers who served in foreign wars. Australian troops supported both British and American military conflicts beginning with World War I.
We continued west to Portland, a small community with a harbor. We loaded a tour bus and drove to Port Ferry, a quaint seaside village that depends on summer tourism. Our guide was a young Australian who talked about the region as we drove through the countryside. This was my first time seeing rural Australia and it reminded me of my south Texas childhood, dotted with small farms that raised mainly sheep and cattle. Every ten miles or so, we passed through villages with a small grocery store and parish church. Our guide made an offhanded comment: “Unlike the major cities, people here attend church and the stores close at 1pm on Sunday.” He followed with a story about running out of gas on a Sunday and not being able to buy a gas can to haul gasoline to his car. He had to dig through a trash bin for a discarded plastic milk container. The police caught him and decided not to fine him as it was too much paperwork for the crime.
What caught my attention was that people in rural areas, without all the stresses of city life, celebrate the Sabbath while those in urban areas regularly forgo the day of rest. The cathedrals are poorly attended while the small village communities are spiritually active. Those that rush through life in densely populated areas surrounded by human structures are rejecting Christian community and a weekly day of quiet reflection on something far greater than earthly structures. Those surrounded by the verdant lands with less human contact seek out community and spiritual connections. This is both a paradox and divide within the Australian nation.
This Australian trend is no different than what is happening within America. In my youth, urban and rural church attendance was consistent. Life slowed on Sundays with stores closing and church worship a common community event. As I aged, my suburban church attendance remained steady while urban churches declined. Our central Austin church attendance has slowly declined as the church membership greys. Life seems too busy to devote time towards rest and reflection. A mile to the east of our Austin church is the University of Texas, attended by 60,000 students. Only students on choral scholarships attend our worship service.
Yesterday, we anchored near Kangaroo Island and toured the coastal roads on a small bus. Our guide spoke about how wonderful it was to grow up on the island. The largest island town has a population of 2,000. The second largest town has a population of 250. She said that many of the young adults leave the island for Australian urban areas. After a few years, most return to raise their children on Kangaroo Island. The young adults remembered their childhood joy of exploring the untamed island and discovering its natural treasures. Perhaps those stressed by urban life will rediscover the joy of God’s wondrous love and grace. A holiday on a remote island would be a good place to find fresh insights.
